Cost: $4/slice
I need to start this review with a disclaimer: Upside Pizza has been my go-to slice since moving to Greenpoint two years ago. I’ve had it dozens of times, it is no secret that I think their pizza is great, and I walked in to get this slice fully expecting to write a positive review. And guess what? That’s exactly what I’m going to do.
Although my bias is real, the particular slice I had for this review is the best slice I’ve had from Upside in recent memory, and emblematic of the reasons I love it. I’ll start with the cheese. Take a look at the first photo above - just look at the beautiful heterogeneity of the cheese. There is perfect coverage with gorgeous, deep brown (but not burnt) toasted areas of cheese, creating the perfect marbled layout of rich melty goodness and nutty, aromatic char. Additionally, Upside adds a few gobs of low moisture mozzarella, which is seen on the edge of the slice, as well as grated parmesan on top. This creates a tapestry of textures and flavors that makes eating this slice downright exciting - no two bites are the same.
Next, the sauce. Simply put, it’s salty. Upside rides the perilous line between properly seasoned and overly salty with the devil-may-cry attitude one should expect from an NYC pizzaiolo. I cannot abide an unsalted tomato in any context, and Upside pizza does not fail me. It just makes the tomatoes really pop and taste the way they should: bright, rich yet fresh, with a tasty glutamic umami. It’s a perfectly simple sauce and carries the slice into my pantheon of slices. If you don’t understand what I mean, try a slice of Upside and a slice of Joe’s side by side - the difference will be obvious.
Finally, the crust. As I have said in the past, the ingredient constraints of a cheese slice forces the basics to be perfect, and challenges the maker to get creative. At Upside, they use a sourdough crust, and it’s a wonderful twist. Instead of adding to the dough with something like cornmeal, they change the dough itself. This adds a fun extra flavor to an otherwise familiar formula, but does not overwhelm everything else. It is purely complementary. Additionally, nothing is sacrificed in making this change. The base and handle are perfectly charred, with an excellent marbling of color and flavor. The base is somehow razor thin, but able to easily support the slice without being brittle. And the handle is puffy and soft, but not doughy. When I picked up the slice (seen above), the handle did not snap but rather deflated gently. Furthermore, the ratio of handle to sauce and cheese is spot on. Upside nails the essential physics of the crust while adding to the flavor. What’s not to love?
I have given this a lot of thought, and when taking the value of one’s time into consideration, the cheese slice at Upside is the best overall slice I have had in NYC. L’Industrie is better (but it’s close!) when simply comparing slice to slice, but you inevitably have to wait in a line for at least 20 minutes for a slice - not even a whole pie! I have never waited for more than two minutes at Upside. Grabbing a slice of pizza is supposed to be quick and easy, waiting in line for one is for rare occasions and tourists.
Upside is innovative yet faithful to the trinity, accessible yet premium, and even has a great cocktail bar in the back. Wake up y’all, it’s simply the best.
5/5.